Travellers’ tales: Lots to Offa for the road cyclist

Since our son Tom started at Cardiff University, I’ve harboured plans to cycle a road route that accompanies Offa’s Dyke. I was inspired by the tantalising views from the train and happy memories as a Midlands teenager, cutting my cycling teeth in and around the Welsh border in the 1980s.

We set off from Chester, travelling light with just a Carradice saddlebag each. My father did most of his cycling with the Wolverhampton Wheelers, riding out to Lake Vyrnwy and Barmouth in the 1950s, so I was looking forward to retracing some of his pedal strokes as we headed south.

From Chester railway station you’re out into the countryside almost immediately. We kept to the B roads and lanes as much as possible, through Tattenhall and onto Malpas, where the limit of the Cheshire plain is quite noticeable. Our route was quiet and dry in the July sunshine, but leaden skies above suggested we had no time to linger.

After lunch in Northwood, we continued to the west of Shrewsbury, enjoying the deserted lanes amid high-sided hedgerows. The weather was close, with a refreshing drizzle starting mid-afternoon, but there was no need for waterproofs.

From Pontesbury, the route lifts to meet the Long Mynd – familiar countryside, sparking memories of the Dawes Fox of my teens. The climb is unrelenting for several miles but rewarded either side by the spectacular countryside just south of Ratlinghope, the Stiperstones to the west and lots wildlife.

After a comfortable overnight in Knighton, we were greeted by blue skies, bright sunshine – and the climb out of the valley. Bacon sandwiches awaited in Hay-on-Wye, and there’s a choice of route: the Golden Valley or the Gospel Pass. We chose the latter.

This spectacular climb is followed by the long descent to Capel-y-ffin, a place of tranquillity and where Offa’s Dyke crosses. On then to Abergavenny, accompanied frequently by buzzards swooping from side to side between the hedgerows.

The character of the ride began to change yet again as we followed good-quality cycle paths and then a canal towpath for many miles. Our journey culminated in a long and relaxing descent into the centre of Cardiff, where we had a well-earned beer.