Travellers’ tales: Exploring mine craft by bike

A person is cycling with a child trailer on a gravel track through pine-covered mountains
Family bikepacking in Wales
Cycling UK member Peter Haskett planned a family bikepacking trip that took in one of the UK’s only two underground waterwheels as well as a refreshing dip in a river and some wildlife

Where: Mid Wales
Who: Peter Haskett
When: Summer 2025

We pushed open a heavy metal gate, revealing a long, black tunnel. As we entered, all we could hear was the splashing of our feet and the constant dripping of water.

Head torches on, we walked in for 50 metres or so. And there it was in all its decaying glory: one of only two surviving underground waterwheels in the UK.

A big wooden wheel underground and in the dark
One of just two underground waterwheels left in the UK

Our three-day family bikepacking trip began on a warm day in Machynlleth with a climb into the hills. We puffed and pushed up small lanes and forest tracks, before descending into Artists Valley and reaching the mine midafternoon.

After exploring that, a friendly local told us of a lovely spot for a dip in the river. Feeling refreshed, we cruised down towards Borth, reaching our campsite in time for tea. We were treated to a beautiful sunset.

The next day would bring a long climb back up into the mountains. But for the time being we were content to enjoy the last of the sunshine and settle down in the tent, listening to the cries of oystercatchers and curlew across the water.

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