Travellers’ tales: Cycling the Southern Highway, my way

A man in cycling kit is standing with a loaded touring bike on a bridge over a river. Behind him are the river and pine-covered mountains underneath a blue sky
Carretera Austral – Southern Highway in English – is one of South America’s most remote long-distance routes. Cycling UK member Stephen Whyatt rode it all in two tours nine years apart

Where: Chile & Argentina
Who: Stephen Whyatt
When: 2009 & 2018

The Carretera Austral through southern Chile runs 1,247km south from Puerto Montt to the isolated town Villa O’Higgins. Along the way are mountains, forests, fjords, lakes, rivers and glaciers. I started on this road in 2009 and finished in 2018.

My 2009 tour ended in Puerto Chacabuco after 870km. The route was mostly on good gravel tracks but included lake crossings by boats, and riding/pushing along the Lake Puelo trail.

Nine years later, I completed the Southern Highway by cycling from Coyhaique to Villa O’Higgins (600km), and then carrying on to Argentina. It was a hilly route with blue lakes, rivers and rolling countryside.

Approaching Cochrane there were spectacular views of the snow-covered peaks of the Northern Ice Field. Cochrane is the last town before O’Higgins, 230km further south.

From O’Higgins I took the ferry across the eponymous lake to the Southern Ice Field. I continued south into Argentina on a gravel road, then forest trails. From Los Glaciares National Park, I made my way by bike and bus to Punta Arenas, eventually flying back to Coyhaique.

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