Travellers’ tales: Cycling the Southern Highway, my way
Where: Chile & Argentina
Who: Stephen Whyatt
When: 2009 & 2018
The Carretera Austral through southern Chile runs 1,247km south from Puerto Montt to the isolated town Villa O’Higgins. Along the way are mountains, forests, fjords, lakes, rivers and glaciers. I started on this road in 2009 and finished in 2018.
My 2009 tour ended in Puerto Chacabuco after 870km. The route was mostly on good gravel tracks but included lake crossings by boats, and riding/pushing along the Lake Puelo trail.
Nine years later, I completed the Southern Highway by cycling from Coyhaique to Villa O’Higgins (600km), and then carrying on to Argentina. It was a hilly route with blue lakes, rivers and rolling countryside.
Approaching Cochrane there were spectacular views of the snow-covered peaks of the Northern Ice Field. Cochrane is the last town before O’Higgins, 230km further south.
From O’Higgins I took the ferry across the eponymous lake to the Southern Ice Field. I continued south into Argentina on a gravel road, then forest trails. From Los Glaciares National Park, I made my way by bike and bus to Punta Arenas, eventually flying back to Coyhaique.
Cycle magazine
Every two months Cycling UK members receive Cycle magazine, filled with interesting and informative articles, news and reviews for all cyclists.
Members can read the magazine in full online; non-members can read selected highlights.