Weekender: The Ards Peninsula

Route name: Ards Peninsula Quiet Ways Trail
Start: Bangor Station (no bikes on trains before 9:30) or via Comber Greenway and its new extensions. North Down Coastal Path is also possible but is narrow and rough in places
Finish: Portaferry
Maps: OS Discoverer Series sheets 15 (Belfast) and 21 (Strangford)
Ride length: 66.4km (41.27 miles)
Climbing: 340m
Bike type: Road, touring, hybrid, e-bike
Ride level: Regular

The Ards Peninsula and the sheltered waters of Strangford Lough are well known for their wildlife and natural beauty. Less familiar is what lies inshore: a network of quiet country roads and lanes, tucked away from busy, coastal A roads. They trace a green spine down the peninsula and offer relaxed, rewarding cycling.

Improved Greenways from Belfast through Comber and Newtownards now provide easier access to the peninsula by bike.

The Ards Peninsula Quiet Ways Trail was launched by Ards and North Down Cycling Campaign, in partnership with Ards and North Down Borough Council. It begins in Bangor and guides riders from the colourful Victorian terraces overlooking Belfast Lough to the tidal narrows at the mouth of Strangford Lough.

This is not a direct route – and that is very much the point. The trail meanders along narrow roads that once linked farmyard to farmyard.

Blackthorn and gorse line the verges, while fields shift with the seasons, with lambs in spring or crops of barley and potatoes later in the year.

A steady rhythm of short climbs and descents keep the route engaging without becoming arduous Stephen McCrory

History is never far away: a working windmill stands near to the stumps of others. Glimpses of castles, baronial houses, small churches and fragments of ancient woodland appear unexpectedly around bends in the road.

Short diversions can add depth to the journey. Mount Stewart’s neoclassical house and celebrated gardens provide a striking contrast to the surrounding farmland, while nearby Greyabbey offers a quiet pause among the atmospheric ruins of its Norman past.

The riding itself is gently demanding. Rolling drumlins, shaped by the last Ice Age, create a steady rhythm of short climbs and descents that keep the route engaging without becoming arduous. As the road heads south, the peninsula narrows and flashes of water begin to appear first on one side, then the other.

Near the tip, riders face a choice: turn east towards the wilder Irish Sea coast or west to the calmer, wooded shores of Strangford Lough. Both offer memorable views and abundant birdlife.

The route finishes in Portaferry, where powerful tides surge through the narrow channel and the ferry battles its way across the lough. It’s an ideal place to stop, refuel and reflect on a ride that takes in some of Northern Ireland’s best quiet roads.

1. Bangor

A small city retaining the charm of its Victorian seaside heyday, with plenty of places to eat and stay. For those in a hurry to be off, ‘Trax’ in the station can provide the ideal cyclist’s breakfast: the Ulster fry.

If you have more time, the castle grounds above the station hosts an excellent small museum, café and enchanting walled garden.

2. Ballycopeland Windmill

The last survivor on what was once a landscape dotted with a hundred mills. Built in the late 1700s, with a rotating cap and three mill wheels, it was cutting edge technology in its day.

Today, cyclists can visit the mill and relax in the café, which is due to reopen this year. For opening times, see Visit Ards and North Down.

3. Mount Stewart House

A short diversion at this point allows a visit to the magnificent house and gardens of this National Trust property.

It lies just north of the charming village of Greyabbey, with its cafés, pub, antique shops and Norman abbey. Getting here does necessitate using a stretch of A road.

4. Broom Hill

At a staggered junction, the route offers a choice. Tired legs or wild weather make going straight ahead tempting, dropping past Lough Cowey until Marlfield Road arrives at the wooded shores of Strangford Lough.

Turning left keeps to the main route, heading for the Irish Sea coast, which is increasingly wild and rocky. Camping is available at nearby Ardminnan.

5. Millin Bay

As one approaches the tip of the peninsula, there is an abundance of ancient history present, particularly relating to the Stone and Bronze Ages. It is a land of standing stones and raths (circular earthen ramparts).

St Cowey’s Wells merit a visit for a refreshing taste of (healing?) spring water and the views of the salt marshes.

6. Portaferry

A small town with plenty of options for food, drink, shelter and possibly some traditional music. The views over the narrows towards the village of Strangford are stunning. You can take the ferry across if you want to visit another splendid National Trust property, Castle Ward, which also offers a campsite and cycle trails.