Sunday 21st May 2023 - Tim's report from Maastricht
‘From Our Own Correspondent’
Ride Report by Tim Newbery from Maastricht, Netherlands.
(Tim’s on a 1000 km journey along the Netherlands ‘Maasroute’ from The Hook of Holland to Maastricht and back. Epic tales and photographs to follow on return in early June).
“My Sunday started in a small but beautifully appointed ‘mini camp’ at Ohe En Laak. The sun had been shining since dawn and temperatures were due to rise to about 23 Degrees Celsius, the warmest day of the year so far.
Following the Dutch long distance cycle way, it would be about 60 km to the Belgian border, just south of Maastricht and my half way point.
As it had been for several days, the route would largely follow the River Maas, plenty to see and admire and a wealth of history. Information and interpretation boards were available almost every kilometre for anyone interested in learning more.
With Ascention Day on the Thursday, most Dutch had taken the week off and were enjoying a taste of Spring. There were cyclists everywhere. Solo riders, families (some in the familiar cargo bike carriers) and swarms of club cyclists, some of an older generation chatting and enjoying the camaraderie and some heads down concerned about speed, timings and cranking up a good wattage. The former were keen to engage and reply to my greetings (admittedly in rather poor Dutch).
The updated and newly signed Maasroute utilises a mix of recently laid, perfectly smooth bespoke cycle tracks segregated from the highways, quiet rural roads with cycle lanes and part off road through picturesque fields and woodland. Not so good for a winter ride however.
At Berg aan de Maas, a chance for refreshment at a cafe by the ferry that would take you across the few metres into Belgium. A rather fine apricot ‘’vlaai’ and coffee. The toilet facilities were spotless, as is typical in the Netherlands. Fresh cut flowers, pot plants and the sound of birdsong from speakers hidden in alcoves.
Refreshed, southbound through Urmond and Meers, past former battlefields (the Dutch waging war with the Spanish), castles, and then into the wide open floodplains of the Maas. In this Limburg landscape, following disastrous flooding (the worst occurring in 1993), the Grensmaas Project is being developed where the land is deliberately being allowed to flood. Counterintuitive perhaps but allowing this ‘de-reclamation’ is deemed essential with flooding expected to become increasingly severe and so allowing the river to overflow as it used to for centuries. The project is due to be completed in 2025.
The final few kilometres to the Belgian border were uphill. Yes. 13 percent climbs to Fort Sint Pieter affording stunning views over the vineyards to the River Maas below.
The ride had been marked by sights and sounds of nature. Frogs, geese, cuckoo and woodpecker all playing their part.
Finally, arriving into historic Maastricht in time to settle into an apartment for a couple of days. I had arrived just as the Maastricht Marathon was finishing and almost, mistakenly, went under the finishing post. I was wondering why so many were (apparently) applauding my arrival.
Maastricht is an ancient city, dating to at least Roman Times but is now more recognised as an important University City. Plenty to explore tomorrow before my slow, trek back next week.