Weekender: Exmoor explorer
Route name: Exmoor explorer
Start/finish: Porlock village central car park (off the B3225 road to Porlock Weir). Nearest train station is Minehead (11km/7 miles away), the end of a seasonal heritage line that starts at Bishop’s Lydeard (9.5km/6 miles from Taunton)
Ride length: 36.4km
Climbing: 1,300m
Bike type: This is mountain bike territory – ideally a full-suspension model. Electric assistance is helpful, too
Ride level: Best for experienced off-road riders. Due to the steep hills, a high level of fitness (or an e-bike) is recommended
Exmoor National Park covers an area of 700 square kilometres, with 71% in Somerset and the remaining 29% in Devon. With around 700km of bridleways and many more unclassified tracks and permissive bridleways, there are plenty of trails to keep you entertained here.
This route starts by heading south, up onto Doverhay Down. It then uses one of the permissive bridleways to link you to Ley Hill, where you join Granny’s Ride.
This fun and challenging singletrack trail drops you steeply down the first of the many steep-sided combes around these parts into the heart of Horner Wood. If you thought the descent inappropriately named, just wait until you attempt the tough push back up the other side!
The ancient oak trees here add an eerie ambience to this quiet nature reserve. Both flora and fauna flourish, and you could easily spend some time exploring and playing in the babbling river here.
Dunkery Beacon sits at more than 500 metres. Big views out across wild and expansive moorland, and even over the Severn Estuary to Wales, reward your efforts Max Darkins
Next comes the big climb to the highest point in Exmoor: Dunkery Beacon, which sits at more than 500 metres. Big views out across wild and expansive moorland, and even over the Severn Estuary to Wales, reward your efforts.
In autumn you will be further treated with bright yellow gorse, while July and August have vibrant purple heather. It’s also a good place to spot wild ponies and deer roaming the open moor. There is, of course, also a great downhill section from here.
You descend the open moor on a wide and rocky trail, and with no real hidden surprises you can enjoy a clear run. At the bottom, a cruise back along the foot of the moors leads you to Horner, where the pull of a cream tea may delay proceedings for a while.
The second loop takes you west of Porlock, climbing to just over 400 metres this time, to Hawkcombe Head, where you turn and head back down to Porlock.
This track is a classic, starting with a flowing trail across the open moorland before it drops into the dark, wooded valley, splashing through streams and bumping over rocks and roots as you go.
You could stay along the valley floor all the way back into Porlock. Alternatively, if you have the energy, follow the route for one last ‘little’ climb and finish with a flourish, before plopping back to Porlock for a well-earned pint.
The upland moorland area provides some majestic views but starting at sea level you do have to work pretty hard to get yourself up to the top. The journey back down rewards you with some exhilarating riding, and the double-bubble shape of the route enables it to be tackled as two rides if required.
Summary
A hilly route with some steep, challenging trails. The hills make this physically demanding too, but it can easily be split into two rides.
1. Porlock village
This small village provides plenty of facilities for visitors, with nice venues to eat and drink, ranging from friendly pubs, such as the Ship Inn, to artisan cafés and a quirky delicatessen (The Big Cheese).
It even has a campsite in the village itself. There is no bike shop, however, so come prepared. The main car park and village can be very busy at peak times, but Horner village makes a great alternative start location, with a large car park, toilets, a farm shop and a nice tea shop.
2. Horner Wood
This is the largest area of ancient oak woodland in Britain. We descend its steep-sided valleys to cross Horner Water.
The protected National Nature Reserve, owned by the National Trust, is home to a variety of wildlife and plant life, including 15 of the UK’s 17 species of bat, many interesting and rare birds, and more than 330 types of lichen.
3. Dunkery Beacon
This is the highest natural point in Somerset (519m). It provides great views across the moors and over the Severn Estuary to Wales. The cairn at the top of this hill has been visited by humans since the Bronze Age and contains several burial mounds.
It’s exposed up here so be prepared. After you’ve enjoyed the view, there is a great descent waiting for you.
4. Hawkcombe Woods
A lovely woodland of Special Scientific Interest. It’s just over 100 hectares in area, and it’s home to important and rare flora and fauna. Take note that the route crosses over itself here.
Make sure not to ride up Shillet Wood Combe, as that is definitely best enjoyed with gravity on your side. Be aware that, at the very end near Porlock, the trail forks: left is a very rocky track down to Porlock; right takes you to Hawkcombe for an easier and less technical end to the day.
5. Porlock Weir (and beach)
This pebble beach may not be ideal for sunbathing but the coastline is dramatic where the steep wooded hillside plunges down to the sea. Bridleway access to the beach makes it a good place to cycle out to, so you can enjoy a cooling plunge at the end of the ride and then admire the lovely little harbour.
This has a good café and a pub, as well as a venue selling fresh local oysters.